Coffee Regions

Coffee grows in the sunny equatorial belt around the world. It's 1000 miles big and runs from The Tropic of Cancer to The Tropic of Capricorn. Through the years many have tried and failed to proliferate this bean outside of its warm and snuggly comfort zone and thankfully have failed, ensuring that we only have the best coffee regions.

While dimming the lights and soft music is in order to encourage reproduction of many species, this is quite the opposite of the coffee plant. With the exception of shade grown, the promiscuous, yet fickle coffee plant most often produces its cherries in hot, passionate sunny regions whilst in the mood. Tropical mist and fruity drinks encourage such frisky behavior. They have the same effect on me!... Warm, year-round climates and generous rainfall are commonplace here, and required of coffee regions. But did you know that coffee grown at higher elevations in these tropical areas produces some of the finest brews? Some say the best. Think of the rugged mountains of Colombia and Guatemala or the volcanic slopes of Java and Sumatra -- high places known for their full-flavored, robust coffee. Does altitude make cultivation more difficult? Does working on a hillside require one leg to be shorter than the other? Yes and no.

There's no doubt that coffees grown at lower altitudes can also be exceptional, though the conditions at lower elevations are often less than ideal. Beans can over-ripen or receive too much moisture. And because the trees produce beans non-stop, the flavor and quality can be diluted. Some say that's why these types of coffees are best suited for mass production, where low elevation coffee plantations are easier and more efficient to farm.

There are over 75 countries where coffee beans are grown and the world's best farmers cultivate specialty beans. These farmers are often from coffee regions that are not the largest volume producers of beans but I believe they are the best. They nurture their plants with love and are fueled on a quest to create the ultimate cup of excellence. Quality over quantity is what specialty coffee farmers are about.

Where are coffee beans grown? Hop on my balloon and join me as we float quickly over many extraordinary coffee growing regions...

Central America & Mexico

Costa Rica

Through the years in my travels, I have heard many a coffee snoot pule incessantly about the coffees of Costa Rica. The mere thought of it could lead them to doze off in their Sarchi chairs. When awoken from their slumber, they balked that the coffees were too traditional and middle of the road to ever thrill their persnickety high maintenance palates. But that was years ago before the rise of the Costa Rican micro-mills, which are groups of small farmers who have formed cooperatives.

They control the production process by growing and processing their own coffee. The cherries are separated by the quality and elevation they were grown at, to meet strict standards. Every grower's coffee is cupped numerous times before it goes to market. This process educates the farmer on how to enhance the unique characteristics of the coffee they bring to the marketplace. Understanding the notes that the coffee buyers are looking for helps them continually improve their coffees to create a better end product.

As a result, the reputations of these micro-mills are helping small farmers stand out and make a name for themselves. Specialty coffee roasters seek out premium quality micro-lots from small farms and happily pay substantially more than the going price for their quality and uniqueness. The extra money goes a long way for the farmer to reinvest in his business and creates a huge level of pride when the name of their tiny farm becomes known, respected and celebrated by coffee enthusiasts across the globe.

So let the jaded coffee drinkers of the world rejoice, because now whether your hiking the smoldering crater at Poas or sunning on the sandy beaches of Manuel Antonio, you can enjoy some of the finest varieties of coffee in the world, right here in Costa Rica. And variety it is! Whether its sweet and fruity with floral notes, or the highly sought after berry-like flavors or nutty and yummy chocolaty flavors, you can be sure that you'll never find me face down asleep in my cup!

Ranked 9th in the world. * Cup of Excellence Country Best known varietals: Caturra,Catuai,Tarrazu, Villa Sarchi, Typica.

El Salvador

It has been quite awhile since I've manned my balloon over the Gulf of Fonseca into El Salvador to float over the winding mountain roads above the Ruta de Las Flores (Route of the flowers) that traverses El Salvador's coffee country. In May, coffee blossoms cover the Volcanoes to create a most beautiful and spectacular sight. The 36 kilometer/ 22-mile road is a quick ride in my balloon, but I am never too busy to stop for a few cups of the premium coffee. Sadly, this charming country, which is the smallest in Central America, has had much political instability and thus, although the coffees are excellent, the supply has not always been consistent. But things are changing.

And no doubt a woman is behind it. No discussion of El Salvadorian coffee is complete without mentioning, Aida Batlle, who runs 3 of her family's farms located on the slopes of the Santa Ana volcano. Aida has carried on the Batlle family's 40-year tradition with an unwavering commitment to excellence in the growing and handling of the beans. She has also made some changes: by converting to organic farming practices. Tending to her plants with love, like they are her children, and respecting their history. While it would be more profitable to replace her very low yielding plants with new higher producing coffee plants, she will not.

Many of these varietals have prospered there for decades and she understands the importance of preserving them. When she is not walking her fields, she is often experimenting with berries of different ripeness, de-pulping them by hand, and drying them to find what is the optimum time to handpick the cherries, when the fruity sweetness is at its peak. I would say her berries are truly made with love.

Cup of Excellence Country Best known varietals: Bourbon, Pacas, Pacamara, Typica.

Guatemala

Ah...Guatemala. Just thinking about the superior complexity of the Guatemalan cup thrills me. Some of the world's finest specialty coffees are grown in the Highlands of this small but respected coffee growing country. The climate is ideal. The sunny days and cool nights, high altitude and rich volcanic soil make Guatemala a great place to grow.

I so enjoy packing on my well-fed mule, Ramon, onto the steep, rugged hills of the Antigua or Coban regions to visit the origin of their lively spicy, floral and chocolaty brews. The coffees from Guatemala are sold using a system that separates them by grade. The elevation that the beans are grown at is the determining factor.

Strictly hard bean (SHB) is the highest quality and is grown above 4500 feet. Beans grown at these higher elevations are more valued because they are denser and harder. The lower grade is Hard bean (HB), which is grown between 4000- 4500 feet. Because of Guatemala's proximity to the U.S., much is imported directly to your local roaster. Lucky.

Ranked 8th in the world. * Cup of Excellence Country

High quality coffees here are produced using the Wet- Processed. Best known varietals: Antigua, Atitlan, Arabigo, Bourbon, Caturra, Catuai, Coban, Huehuetenango, Pacamara, Maragogype, Typica.

Honduras

If you are a fan of mild and full-bodied coffees with distinct sweet caramel flavors then you will enjoy the high grown coffees of Honduras. These coffees can be quite good yet have been devalued and punished in the past for their low quality wrap. Because of this, quality farmers have struggled and have often received less than market rate for their beans. They have also had to overcome a reputation for historically producing cheaper lower quality Arabica but now with the support of the Honduran government, NGO organizations and the Cup of Excellence things are changing rapidly.

A group of Honduras cooperatives are leading the way with an exciting goal - That 20 percent of next year's crops are to be sold as specialty varieties. Recently growers have been able to increase their profits by tapping into the socially conscious trend by certifying their products as organic, fair trade, shade grown or rain-forest friendly. A number of American specialty roasters have forged strong relationships with farms and work with them to continually refine their process in order to bring you the very best coffee.

One of my favorite cups in Honduras has notes of sweet citrus and dark fruit and is grown in the quiet mountain town of Marcala. The coffee of Marcala was the first in Central America to receive the prestigious "Denomination Of Origin" stamp, protecting the authenticity of the beans from this region. If this information does not thrill you, maybe this will: Much of the lingerie sold in the US is made in Honduras. A tasty cup in more ways than one.

Cup of Excellence Country Best known varietals: Bourbon and Caturra.

Nicaragua

The country of Nicaragua is situated a prime coffee growing region of Central America. Once the producer of some of the finest coffees in the world, Nicaragua is working its way back after the Sandinistas and years of political unrest. At the time, many growers and their families fled the country and abandoned their farms. This country in the 1970's was producing over a million pounds of coffee beans a year!

With the return of Democratic rule in the 1990's, things are back on track with a focus on quality and sustainability as they produce a wide variety of cup flavors cultivated on thousands of small to modest-sized farms mostly from the noted Nuevo Segovia, Jinotega and Matagalpa regions. The Miraflor nature preserve is an excellent example of a protected area that utilizes Sustainable agriculture practices to promote the success of the ecotourism trade and the well being of its inhabitance. Their Miraflor coffee is an outstanding balanced cup of tart cherry and sugar sweetness.

Cup of Excellence Country Best known varietals: Typica, Caturra, Bourbon, Java Cultivar, Pacamara and Maragogype.

Panama

Panama once historically overlooked, is no longer. The Best of Panama competition is held here ever year attracting people from across the globe competing for the best lots. Ask any coffee aficionado and they will tell you that the world famous Panama Esmeralda is considered by most to be the Holy grail of coffees. Its origin is a mystery and often debated. Its mystery makes them that much more enticing... Like women.

The Hartmann family farm, in Volcan, Panama, has 3 generations of family members who together are producing some truly exceptional coffee. The Honey Hartmann is a shade grown coffee with notes of sweet honey. Also notable is the distinct and unique coffees produced by Wolford Lamastus's Elida Estate in Boquete. Together, they are joined by a number estates producing some beautiful coffees many with bright tone floral and fruity notes.

Cup of Excellence Country Best known varietals: Catuai, Caturra.

Mexico

"Bésame... bésame mucho, Como si fuera esta noche la última vez..."

Ah... Spanish love songs. It's hard not to fall in love with the passionate people of Mexico and their rich, nutty, chocolaty coffees. Mexican coffee is grown in the southern, tropical regions and most often used dark roasts and blends. However, coffees in Mexico cannot easily be summed up. They vary greatly depending on which Mexican coffee region grows them. Oaxaca Pluma is quite different than Coatepec, as are the excellent coffees from the southern most regions of Chiapas, near Guatemala.

If your passport isn't in order and you detest mosquitoes, take heart: Mexico is presently the largest importer of coffee to the U.S.

Ranked 5th in the world.* Best known varietals: Altura, Bourbon, Carnica, Coatepec, Magagogype, Mundo Nuevo, Oaxaca Pluma, Typica.

The Carribean

Coffee growing in the Caribbean Americas began in this chain of tropical islands once ruled by Europe's colonial powers -- Britain, France and The Netherlands. But today is what matters and I happily island hop by seaplane between these now independent states to sample their mellow, fruity and brightly acidic coffees.

Dominican Republic

Lets first land on the Dominican half of the Island of Hispaniola where the land and people produce a variety of complex, low altitude coffees. Flavor sensations abound, but we mostly notice their bright, light or mellow finish with spicy hints. There are seven specific growing regions established by the government with various microclimates.

Best known varietals: Santo Domingo.

Haiti

Traveling by motorbike, my lovely assistant sitting on the handlebars, we cross the muddy highlands of Hispaniola and end up in Haiti where the coffee is characteristically mellow and sweet and very popular on the Continent, you know.

Jamaica

I like to come back to Jamaica and sample their coffees with a brightly acidic, delightfully nutty flavor and its surprising, uniquely beefy-flavored notes. The eastern end of the island produces hard to find - at least in the U.S. - Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee, considered one of the finest in the world. Sweet and mellow, mon! You'll have better luck finding it in Europe or Japan where they crave it like bloodthirsty zombies!

Best known varietals: Jamaican Blue Mountain, High Mountain Supreme, Typica.

Puerto Rico

After touring the streets of Old San Juan on my scooter, I head into the wonderfully eclectic cafes in this contrasting city of old and new to sample Café Rico and other notable local coffees. Mellow, crisp and fruity cup.

Best known varietals: Café Rico, Yauco Selecto, Typica, Bourbon, Limon

South America

Brazil

When I'm feeling a bit randy for a taste of true Brazilian coffee, I brush up on my Portuguese and head for exotic, sexy Rio de Janeiro... to Carnival, one of the greatest shows on earth. When they're not prancing around in sequins and feathers, these lively people are hard at work producing thirty-five percent of the world's coffee. They are the world's leading exporter. The conditions in this South American coffee growing region are perfect! Coffee is grown on some of the highest slopes in the world. While much of this coffee is low grown, blended and used in massed consumed brands, perpetuating the notion of quantity over quality, there are still many wonderful sweet, bright and rich South American coffees and special lots to be found.

Specialty coffee roasters have discovered and developed close relationships with a number of sensational Brazilian farms that truly stand out and that are worthy of our love and accolades. Many single origins from Brazil can be sweet, complex and rather mind blowing. Ruvaldo Delarisse runs his family farm, Chapadao De Ferro. He inherited it from his beloved mother, Amelia and produces Micro-lots grown on an extinct volcano in Patrocinio that has flavors of Butterscotch, Dutch Cocoa and dried fruit.

Another notable farmer, Luis Pascoal's obsession with progressive farming techniques and research pays off. His Daterra Sweet Blue brings about flavors of Nutella, Vanilla, Chocolate candy and root beer. Other notables such as Joao Souza's family farm, Fazenda Esperanca and Nazareth Dias Pereira's farm, Fazenda Do Sertao are part of a growing group devoted producing a superior quality Brazilian product using the best ingredient of all... love.

Ranked 1st in the world for exports. * Cup of Excellence Country Best known varietals: Bourbon, Typica, Caturra, Catimor, Maragogype.

Colombia

Following in the footsteps of the legendary Juan Valdez, I too have traversed the steep slopes to pick these sun-drenched Arabica beans by hand. My perspiration and patience always pays off, the coffee ranges from flavorful and mild to exceptionally bold, like the famous Columbian Supremo. It may be Columbia's access to two major oceans that makes it the world's second largest coffee producer, but it is the ideal combination of tropical temps and high altitude that when combined with good farming, gives its coffee such character.

While it is true that many farms have begun to sacrifice quality to focus on more on highyielding varieties, Coffee growing regions are accessible only to intrepid souls like myself - and my lovely assistants carrying my packs.

Ranked 3rd in the world for exports.* Cup of Excellence Country Best known varietals: Columbian Supremo, Medellin.

Ecuador

The conditions here are perfect and coffee is grown on some of the highest growing slopes in the world. Still, Ecuador has yet to crack the primo markets and most of its low-grade coffee goes for blending.

Best known varietals: Bourbon, Caturra, Typica.

Peru

South of coffee dynamo Columbia is the huge expanse of Peru. No wonder the lovely people in this coffee growing region have so much energy! Peru has been somewhat of an underdog in the coffee market, mainly because of political strife. Recently the Peruvian coffee industry has made headway by seeing a trend in organic and fair trade coffee buyers and jumping on it, knowing they could produce it cheaper.

However, cheaper is not better, like Vietnam, Peru is producing low quality beans and flooding the market with it. In order to compete with the sheer volume and cheap price, the high quality organic growers in Peru and other countries are forced to lower prices on their superior Arabica beans just to compete and survive. Cost conscious buyers put this inferior product on their shelves with fancy labels knowing the public will buy it, and they do. The public sees the Fair Trade and Organic label and assume they are helping the farmer and that it is quality coffee.

It is important to reiterate, that there are a number of quality farms that exist in Peru but it is not the coffee you see on shelves everywhere and find for $4 a pound at Cost Plus or Trader Joe's. There are some notable coffees that are sweet and bright from the Chanchamaya and Cuzco regions.

Respect should be given to all farmers; Peruvian included, who grow with a focus on quality. Finding quality beans in Peru is not always consistent... But give it time - Machu Pichu was not built in day!

Best known varietals: Typica, Bourbon, Caturra, Pache.

Venezuela

Oil is now king in Venezuela and that means the coffee industry has suffered, dropping it to one of the lowest ranking coffee producers in the world. Still, the regional favorite Merida is a delicious, light and sweetly acidic pure bread that makes it a favorite underdog for those lucky enough to find it.

Best known varietals: Merida.

Africa & The Middle East

Ethiopia

It's quite a trek by camel caravan heading due southwest from Addis across rocky, mountainous terrain. If you remember your history - pay attention - coffee was first discovered in the southern regions of Ethiopia, now part of the Kaffa province. What an honor to visit the motherland of coffee, which is today Africa's largest producer of Arabica beans and Ethiopia's largest employer.Coffee here never disappoints. Delicious. Wild coffee cherries are still harvested in the mountains by tribes' people. I truly believe that one has not lived until they try Ethiopian Yergachffe coffee. Its sweet berry notes completely intoxicate and overwhelm me with its sweet loveliness. One taste and you will be under Ethiopia's spell. I am.

Ranked 6th in the world.* Best known varietals: Ethiopian Harrar, Yirgacheffe, Sidamo.

Kenya

To gaze the slopes of Kilimanjaro! Kenya has become an African coffee powerhouse with a significant crop of Arabica beans. Coffees here share many characteristics of the region, with a bright, vibrant and winey taste, but these beans stand apart with richer, deeply fruity notes as well.

Best known varietals: SL 28, Bourbon, Kents, Ruiru II.

Tanzania

Around the other side of Kilimanjaro, Tanzanian wet-processed coffees are giving Kenya a run for its money.

Best known varietals: Typica / Nyara, Arusha, Bourbon, Kents, Blue Mountain.

Uganda

Uganda grows huge quantities of Robusta, indigenous to the region and much of it wild. The improving political situation and relations with neighboring port countries has allowed more of the precious few Arabicas to move for export as well.

Ranked 10th in the world.* (Mostly Robusta) Best known varietals: Typica, Kents, Bugisu.

Yemen

Across the sea from Ethiopia, I trek once again from the Yemeni city of Al Mokha (a.k.a. Mocha. Sound familiar?) northward on one of my odorous, humped friends into the highlands where Arabs first cultivated coffee. The growers here dry-process a hearty bean for a bright, spicy brew.

Best known varietals: Mocha.

Asia

India

Ah, the glory of the world's largest democracy! This was the first major region outside of Arabian Africa to cultivate coffee, mainly due to some clever smuggling of fertile coffee beans. Far from the major coastal cities, I love to explore monsoon-ravaged tropical regions of southern India and delight in the spicy coffees, hinting of cardamom and pepper.

Ranked 7th in the world.* Best known varietals: Indian Mysore, Monsoon Malabar.

Vietnam

There are few things more enjoyable to me than a stop in Vietnam for a leisurely bike ride around the emerald green rice paddies to peacefully watch the women in palm-leaf conical hats growing rice in the serenity. Normally, I would stop for coffee on my excursion but in Vietnam, I generally pass. The 4th highest producer of coffee in the world is Vietnam, whose coffee industry was developed in the 1990's via a heavy infusion of cash from the World Bank, who saw money to be made by exporting beans. Sadly, despite the volume produced, Vietnam specializes in low grade Robusta, a bitter bean often used in blends to "cut" the amount of Arabica needed. The sheer volume of Vietnamese Robusta flooding into the market place, despite its low quality, is hurting many coffee growing countries, such as Nicaragua, who must severely lower the prices of their higher quality Arabica beans in order to compete against Vietnams volume and extremely low prices. Vietnam provides the beans for cheap pre-ground and whole bean coffee blends sold in the supermarket. Now that's a bitter bean to swallow.

Ranked 4th in the world. *

Indonesia

This enormous, tropical archipelago stretching from Southeast Asia to Australia is a challenge to navigate. Three of the region's major islands produces a third of the world's coffee beans, though only a portion - about 10% - is Arabica. The rest are less flavorable Robustas.

Java

Yes, the most notable of the coffee islands. Famous for its name. While navigating the muddy roads east of Jakarta in my battered Land Rover, one can smell the coffee berries springing from the trees on large coffee estates. Thank goodness the Dutch brought coffee here in the 17th century and entered a favorite nickname into the coffee lexicon.

Sumatra

It's an enormous island, just a skip by boat to the west, produces coffee known either by its own name or the Mandheling label. Sweet and crisp, this is a truly complex brew. The island of Sulawesi to the east produces a similarly complex cup, like that of Sumatra and maple syrupy notes. Such character!

Best known varietals: Sumatra Arabica

New Guinea

Farther to the east, the island of New Guinea, part Indonesia, part independently governed as Papua New Guinea, is also a noted coffee producer, producing a well-balanced bean with a fruity finish.

Ranked 3rd in the world. * Best known varietals: Java, Sumatra, Mandheling Celebes, Catimor, Djember, Tim Tim.

Hawaii

Hawaii - a place unto itself! After morning of snorkeling the reef at Molokini, nothing clears my head better than a breakfast of fresh pineapple and a hot cup of Kona coffee. Several thousand miles from anywhere, Hawaii has recently become a major coffee player. Of all the coffees grown here, Kona coffee is my favorite.

Kona Coffee is grown on the the Big Island, which has more than 630 farms ranging in elevation from 500 to 3000 feet. Many of these are family farms and are less than 5 acres in size. The Kona variety is internationally known and commands some of the highest prices in the world. It is Medium in body and known for its buttery finish.

Best known varietals: Kona Typica.